  :root {
    --bg: #F2EEE5;
    --surface: #FFFFFF;
    --surface-2: #E8E0D0;
    --ink: #26191B;
    --ink-soft: #5B4C46;
    --maroon: #7C1F2B;
    --maroon-strong: #5C141D;
    --marigold: #B96A16;
    --brass: #8C6A22;
    --dusk: #1C2740;
    --dusk-ink: #F4EFE4;
    --line: rgba(38,25,27,0.14);
    --whatsapp: #3E8E5C;
    --airbnb: #B0264B;
    --mmt: #EE5A1E;
    --phone: #2A5DA8;
    --phone-strong: #1F4680;
  }
  @media (prefers-color-scheme: dark) {
    :root:not([data-theme="light"]) {
      --bg: #16100F;
      --surface: #1F1615;
      --surface-2: #291D1B;
      --ink: #F3ECE2;
      --ink-soft: #C8B9AE;
      --maroon: #E0596B;
      --maroon-strong: #EE7889;
      --marigold: #EFA84B;
      --brass: #C9A227;
      --dusk: #0E1626;
      --dusk-ink: #F4EFE4;
      --line: rgba(243,236,226,0.16);
      --whatsapp: #55B57C;
      --phone: #6FA3EC;
      --phone-strong: #8CB8EE;
    }
  }
  :root[data-theme="dark"] {
    --bg: #16100F;
    --surface: #1F1615;
    --surface-2: #291D1B;
    --ink: #F3ECE2;
    --ink-soft: #C8B9AE;
    --maroon: #E0596B;
    --maroon-strong: #EE7889;
    --marigold: #EFA84B;
    --brass: #C9A227;
    --dusk: #0E1626;
    --dusk-ink: #F4EFE4;
    --line: rgba(243,236,226,0.16);
    --whatsapp: #55B57C;
    --phone: #6FA3EC;
    --phone-strong: #8CB8EE;
  }

  * { box-sizing: border-box; }
  html { scroll-behavior: smooth; }
  @media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce) {
    html { scroll-behavior: auto; }
    * { animation-duration: 0.001ms !important; transition-duration: 0.001ms !important; }
  }

  body {
    margin: 0;
    background: var(--bg);
    color: var(--ink);
    font-family: 'Work Sans', ui-sans-serif, system-ui, sans-serif;
    font-size: 16px;
    line-height: 1.6;
    overflow-x: hidden;
  }

  h1, h2, h3 { font-family: 'Fraunces', Georgia, serif; text-wrap: balance; margin: 0; }
  .eyebrow {
    font-family: 'IBM Plex Mono', ui-monospace, monospace;
    text-transform: uppercase;
    letter-spacing: 0.14em;
    font-size: 0.72rem;
    color: var(--marigold);
    font-weight: 500;
  }
  .eyebrow.on-dusk { color: var(--brass); }

  a { color: inherit; }
  img { display: block; width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; }

  .wrap {
    max-width: 1140px;
    margin: 0 auto;
    padding: 0 clamp(20px, 5vw, 48px);
  }

  /* ---------- top bar ---------- */
  .topbar {
    position: sticky; top: 0; z-index: 40;
    background: color-mix(in srgb, var(--bg) 88%, transparent);
    backdrop-filter: blur(10px);
    border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line);
  }
  .topbar .wrap {
    display: flex; align-items: center;
    padding-top: 14px; padding-bottom: 14px;
    gap: clamp(14px, 2.4vw, 32px);
  }
  .topbar-cta { margin-left: auto; }
  .brand {
    display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: 10px;
    font-family: 'Fraunces', serif;
    font-weight: 600;
    font-size: 1.15rem;
    letter-spacing: 0.01em;
  }
  .brand img {
    width: 34px; height: 34px; border-radius: 50%;
    background: #F2EEE5; padding: 3px; border: 1px solid var(--line);
  }
  .brand em { font-style: italic; color: var(--maroon); }
  .brand-tag {
    font-family: 'IBM Plex Mono', monospace; font-size: 0.7rem; letter-spacing: 0.04em;
    color: var(--ink-soft); font-style: italic; margin-top: 3px;
  }
  .topbar nav { display: flex; gap: 10px; }

  .btn {
    display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: 8px;
    font-family: 'Work Sans', sans-serif;
    font-weight: 600;
    font-size: 0.88rem;
    padding: 10px 18px;
    border-radius: 3px;
    border: 1px solid transparent;
    cursor: pointer;
    text-decoration: none;
    white-space: nowrap;
    transition: transform 0.15s ease, background 0.15s ease, box-shadow .15s ease;
  }
  .btn:hover { transform: translateY(-1px); }
  .btn:focus-visible { outline: 2px solid var(--marigold); outline-offset: 2px; }
  .btn-call {
    background: var(--phone); color: #FBF6EE;
    box-shadow: 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15);
  }
  .btn-call:hover { background: var(--phone-strong); }
  .btn-wa {
    background: var(--whatsapp); color: #fff;
  }
  .btn-wa:hover { filter: brightness(1.08); }
  .btn-ghost {
    background: transparent; border-color: var(--line); color: var(--ink);
  }
  .btn svg { width: 16px; height: 16px; flex: none; }
  .btn.wrap-text { white-space: normal; text-align: center; }

  /* ---------- hero ---------- */
  .hero {
    position: relative;
    min-height: min(94vh, 820px);
    min-height: min(94svh, 820px);
    display: flex; align-items: flex-end;
    color: var(--dusk-ink);
    isolation: isolate;
    overflow: hidden;
  }
  .hero .frame { position: absolute; inset: 0; z-index: -2; }
  .hero .frame img { width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; }
  .hero::before {
    content: ""; position: absolute; inset: 0; z-index: -1;
    background:
      linear-gradient(180deg, rgba(14,22,38,0.35) 0%, rgba(14,22,38,0.28) 30%, rgba(14,22,38,0.72) 78%, rgba(14,22,38,0.92) 100%);
  }
  .hero-inner {
    padding: clamp(90px, 16vw, 150px) 0 clamp(40px, 6vw, 64px);
    width: 100%;
  }
  .hero-badge {
    display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: 8px;
    font-family: 'IBM Plex Mono', monospace;
    font-size: 0.74rem; letter-spacing: 0.06em;
    background: rgba(244,239,228,0.12);
    border: 1px solid rgba(244,239,228,0.35);
    padding: 6px 12px; border-radius: 100px;
    margin-bottom: 22px;
  }
  .hero-badge b { color: var(--brass); font-weight: 600; }
  .hero h1 {
    font-size: clamp(2.4rem, 6vw, 4.6rem);
    font-weight: 600;
    line-height: 1.03;
    max-width: 14ch;
  }
  .hero h1 em { font-style: italic; font-weight: 500; color: #E9C482; }
  .btn-call-alt {
    background: transparent; border: 1.5px solid var(--phone); color: var(--phone);
  }
  .btn-call-alt:hover { background: var(--phone); color: #fff; }
  .hero-ctas .btn-call-alt { border-color: #8FBBEE; color: #8FBBEE; }
  .hero-ctas .btn-call-alt:hover { background: #8FBBEE; color: #1C2740; }
  .hero p.lede {
    margin-top: 20px;
    max-width: 46ch;
    font-size: clamp(1.02rem, 1.6vw, 1.2rem);
    color: rgba(244,239,228,0.88);
  }
  .hero-ctas { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 12px; margin-top: 34px; }
  .hero-ctas .btn { padding: 13px 24px; font-size: 0.95rem; }
  .hero-ctas .btn-ghost { background: rgba(244,239,228,0.08); border-color: rgba(244,239,228,0.4); color: var(--dusk-ink); }

  .hero-meta {
    margin-top: 46px;
    display: flex; gap: clamp(18px,4vw,44px); flex-wrap: wrap;
    padding-top: 22px; border-top: 1px solid rgba(244,239,228,0.22);
  }
  .hero-meta .stat b {
    display: block; font-family: 'Fraunces', serif; font-weight: 600;
    font-size: 1.5rem; font-variant-numeric: tabular-nums;
  }
  .hero-meta .stat span {
    font-family: 'IBM Plex Mono', monospace; font-size: 0.68rem;
    text-transform: uppercase; letter-spacing: 0.1em; color: rgba(244,239,228,0.65);
  }

  /* ---------- section shell ---------- */
  section { padding: clamp(64px, 9vw, 104px) 0; }
  .band-dusk { background: var(--dusk); color: var(--dusk-ink); }
  .band-stone { background: var(--surface-2); }

  .section-head {
    display: flex; align-items: flex-end; justify-content: space-between;
    gap: 24px; flex-wrap: wrap; margin-bottom: 42px;
  }
  .section-head h2 { font-size: clamp(1.6rem, 3.4vw, 2.5rem); font-weight: 600; max-width: 18ch; }
  .section-head p { max-width: 42ch; color: var(--ink-soft); font-size: 0.98rem; }
  .band-dusk .section-head p { color: rgba(244,239,228,0.7); }

  /* ---------- welcome / twin intro ---------- */
  .intro-grid {
    display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; gap: clamp(28px, 5vw, 64px);
    align-items: start;
  }
  .intro-grid > *, .room-pair > *, .loc-grid > *, .platform-grid > * { min-width: 0; }
  .intro-grid .lede-col p { font-size: clamp(1.02rem, 1.6vw, 1.25rem); font-family: 'Fraunces', serif; font-weight: 400; line-height: 1.5; color: var(--ink); }
  .intro-grid .lede-col p + p { margin-top: 1.1em; }
  .twin-note {
    margin-top: 28px; padding-top: 24px; border-top: 1px solid var(--line);
    display: flex; gap: 16px; align-items: flex-start;
  }
  .twin-glyph {
    flex: none; width: 44px; height: 44px; border-radius: 50%;
    border: 1px solid var(--brass); display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: center;
    font-family: 'Fraunces', serif; font-style: italic; color: var(--maroon); font-size: 1rem;
  }
  .twin-note p { font-size: 0.92rem; color: var(--ink-soft); margin: 0; }
  .twin-note b { color: var(--ink); font-weight: 600; }

  .facts-col { display: grid; gap: 14px; align-content: start; }
  .fact-row {
    display: flex; justify-content: space-between; gap: 16px;
    padding: 16px 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line);
    font-family: 'IBM Plex Mono', monospace; font-size: 0.86rem;
  }
  .fact-row span:first-child { color: var(--ink-soft); text-transform: uppercase; letter-spacing: 0.06em; font-size: 0.72rem; padding-top: 3px; }
  .fact-row span:last-child { text-align: right; font-weight: 500; }

  /* ---------- gallery ---------- */
  .filmstrip {
    display: grid; grid-auto-flow: column; grid-auto-columns: min(78vw, 340px);
    gap: 14px; overflow-x: auto; padding-bottom: 14px; scroll-snap-type: x mandatory;
    padding-left: clamp(20px,5vw,48px); padding-right: clamp(20px,5vw,48px);
    scrollbar-width: thin;
    -webkit-overflow-scrolling: touch;
  }
  .filmstrip .frame {
    scroll-snap-align: start; position: relative; border-radius: 2px; overflow: hidden;
    aspect-ratio: 4/5; background: var(--surface-2);
  }
  .filmstrip .frame:nth-child(3n+2) { aspect-ratio: 4/3; align-self: center; }
  .filmstrip .frame figcaption {
    position: absolute; left: 0; right: 0; bottom: 0;
    padding: 10px 12px 8px;
    font-family: 'IBM Plex Mono', monospace; font-size: 0.68rem; letter-spacing: 0.05em;
    text-transform: uppercase; color: #F4EFE4;
    background: linear-gradient(180deg, transparent, rgba(14,10,9,0.75));
  }
  figure { margin: 0; }

  /* ---------- amenities ---------- */
  .amenity-grid {
    display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(3, 1fr);
    border-top: 1px solid var(--line); border-left: 1px solid var(--line);
  }
  .amenity {
    padding: 22px 20px; display: flex; gap: 14px; align-items: flex-start;
    min-width: 0; border-right: 1px solid var(--line); border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line);
  }
  .amenity svg { flex: none; width: 20px; height: 20px; color: var(--maroon); margin-top: 2px; }
  .amenity span { font-size: 0.92rem; min-width: 0; overflow-wrap: break-word; }

  /* ---------- flat types ---------- */
  .room-pair { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; gap: clamp(20px,4vw,40px); }
  .room-card {
    background: var(--surface); border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 3px;
    padding: 28px;
  }
  .room-card-top { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 16px; margin-bottom: 18px; }
  .flat-badge {
    flex: none; width: 60px; height: 60px; border-radius: 50%;
    border: 1px solid var(--brass); display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: center;
    font-family: 'Fraunces', serif; font-weight: 600; font-size: 0.92rem; color: var(--maroon);
  }
  .room-card .eyebrow { display: block; }
  .room-card h3 { font-size: 1.3rem; font-weight: 600; margin-bottom: 10px; }
  .room-card .spec {
    font-family: 'IBM Plex Mono', monospace; font-size: 0.82rem; color: var(--ink);
    margin: 0 0 12px; padding-bottom: 12px; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line);
  }
  .room-card p.desc { color: var(--ink-soft); font-size: 0.92rem; max-width: 40ch; margin: 0; }

  /* ---------- location ---------- */
  .loc-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1.1fr 0.9fr; gap: clamp(32px,5vw,64px); align-items: center; }
  .loc-copy p { color: rgba(244,239,228,0.82); font-size: 1.02rem; max-width: 46ch; margin: 0; }
  .loc-copy p + p { margin-top: 1em; }
  .loc-list { list-style: none; margin: 28px 0 0; padding: 0; display: grid; gap: 12px; }
  .loc-list li { display: flex; gap: 12px; align-items: baseline; font-size: 0.95rem; }
  .loc-list li::before { content: "—"; color: var(--brass); flex: none; }
  .map-frame {
    margin-top: clamp(32px,5vw,56px);
    border: 1px solid rgba(244,239,228,0.2); border-radius: 2px;
    overflow: hidden; line-height: 0;
  }
  .map-frame iframe { width: 100%; height: clamp(280px, 38vw, 420px); border: 0; display: block; }
  .addr-card {
    background: rgba(244,239,228,0.06); border: 1px solid rgba(244,239,228,0.2);
    padding: 30px; border-radius: 2px;
  }
  .addr-card .eyebrow { margin-bottom: 14px; display: block; }
  .addr-card address { font-style: normal; font-family: 'Fraunces', serif; font-size: 1.2rem; line-height: 1.5; margin: 0 0 22px; }
  .addr-card .btn { width: 100%; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 10px; }

  /* ---------- guest reviews ---------- */
  .review-strip {
    display: grid; grid-auto-flow: column; grid-auto-columns: min(82vw, 380px);
    gap: 16px; overflow-x: auto; padding-bottom: 16px;
    scroll-snap-type: x mandatory;
    padding-left: clamp(20px,5vw,48px); padding-right: clamp(20px,5vw,48px);
    scrollbar-width: thin;
    -webkit-overflow-scrolling: touch;
  }
  .review-card {
    scroll-snap-align: start;
    display: flex; flex-direction: column; min-width: 0;
    background: rgba(244,239,228,0.06); border: 1px solid rgba(244,239,228,0.2);
    border-radius: 2px; padding: 26px; margin: 0;
  }
  .review-card .stars {
    color: var(--brass); font-size: 0.9rem; letter-spacing: 0.12em; margin-bottom: 14px;
  }
  .review-card blockquote {
    margin: 0 0 20px; font-size: 0.94rem; line-height: 1.62;
    color: rgba(244,239,228,0.88);
  }
  .review-card figcaption {
    display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 12px;
    margin-top: auto;
    padding-top: 16px; border-top: 1px solid rgba(244,239,228,0.16);
  }
  .review-card .who {
    flex: none; width: 34px; height: 34px; border-radius: 50%;
    border: 1px solid var(--brass); color: var(--brass);
    display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: center;
    font-family: 'Fraunces', serif; font-size: 0.92rem;
  }
  .review-card figcaption b {
    display: block; font-size: 0.9rem; font-weight: 600; color: var(--dusk-ink);
  }
  .review-card figcaption em {
    display: block; font-style: normal;
    font-family: 'IBM Plex Mono', monospace; font-size: 0.68rem;
    letter-spacing: 0.06em; text-transform: uppercase;
    color: rgba(244,239,228,0.55); margin-top: 3px;
  }

  /* ---------- local conveniences ---------- */
  .local-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; gap: clamp(20px,4vw,40px); }
  .local-grid > * { min-width: 0; }
  .local-card {
    background: var(--surface); border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 3px;
    padding: 28px;
  }
  .local-card .eyebrow { display: block; margin-bottom: 10px; }
  .local-card h3 { font-size: 1.3rem; font-weight: 600; margin-bottom: 18px; }
  .chip-list {
    list-style: none; margin: 0 0 18px; padding: 0;
    display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 8px;
  }
  .chip-list li {
    border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 100px;
    padding: 6px 14px; font-size: 0.85rem; font-weight: 500;
  }
  .chip-list li em {
    font-style: normal; color: var(--marigold); font-size: 0.78rem;
    font-family: 'IBM Plex Mono', monospace;
  }
  .local-card p { color: var(--ink-soft); font-size: 0.92rem; margin: 0; }
  .local-card p b { color: var(--ink); font-weight: 600; }

  /* ---------- how to book ---------- */
  .steps { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(3,1fr); gap: clamp(20px,4vw,32px); }
  .step { padding-top: 22px; border-top: 2px solid var(--brass); }
  .step .num { font-family: 'IBM Plex Mono', monospace; color: var(--marigold); font-size: 0.85rem; display: block; margin-bottom: 14px; }
  .step h3 { font-size: 1.15rem; font-weight: 600; margin-bottom: 8px; }
  .step p { color: var(--ink-soft); font-size: 0.92rem; margin: 0; }

  /* ---------- platform booking cards ---------- */
  .platform-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(2, 1fr); gap: 18px; max-width: 640px; }
  .platform-card {
    background: var(--surface); border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 3px;
    padding: 26px; display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 14px;
  }
  .platform-mark {
    display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: 8px;
    font-family: 'Fraunces', serif; font-weight: 600; font-size: 1.05rem;
  }
  .platform-mark .dot { width: 9px; height: 9px; border-radius: 50%; flex: none; }
  .platform-card p { margin: 0; font-size: 0.88rem; color: var(--ink-soft); flex: 1; }
  .platform-card .btn { justify-content: center; }
  .direct-note {
    margin-top: 28px; display: flex; gap: 12px; align-items: flex-start;
    padding: 18px 20px; border: 1px dashed var(--line); border-radius: 3px;
  }
  .direct-note svg { flex: none; width: 20px; height: 20px; color: var(--marigold); margin-top: 2px; }
  .direct-note p { margin: 0; font-size: 0.88rem; color: var(--ink-soft); }
  .direct-note b { color: var(--ink); }

  /* ---------- trust strip ---------- */
  .trust-strip { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 12px; align-items: center; }
  .trust-chip {
    display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: 8px;
    border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 100px;
    padding: 8px 16px; font-size: 0.84rem; text-decoration: none; color: var(--ink);
    font-family: 'Work Sans', sans-serif;
  }
  .trust-chip:hover { border-color: var(--brass); }
  .trust-chip b { color: var(--maroon); }

  /* ---------- final cta ---------- */
  .final-cta { text-align: center; }
  .final-cta h2 { font-size: clamp(2rem,5vw,3.2rem); max-width: 16ch; margin: 0 auto; }
  .final-cta .btn { padding: 15px 30px; font-size: 1rem; }
  .final-cta .cta-row { display: flex; justify-content: center; gap: 14px; margin-top: 32px; flex-wrap: wrap; }

  /* ---------- footer ---------- */
  footer { padding: 40px 0 40px; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
  footer .wrap { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; align-items: center; gap: 20px; flex-wrap: wrap; }
  footer .brand { font-size: 1rem; }
  footer p { font-size: 0.82rem; color: var(--ink-soft); margin: 0; }

  [data-reveal] { opacity: 0; transform: translateY(16px); transition: opacity .7s ease, transform .7s ease; }
  [data-reveal].is-in { opacity: 1; transform: none; }

  @media (max-width: 860px) {
    .intro-grid, .room-pair, .loc-grid, .local-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
    .amenity-grid { grid-template-columns: repeat(2,1fr); }
    .steps { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
    .platform-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
    .topbar nav .btn-ghost { display: none; }
  }
  @media (max-width: 560px) {
    .amenity-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; }
    .hero-meta { gap: 20px; }
  }
  @media (max-width: 480px) {
    .topbar .wrap { padding-top: 11px; padding-bottom: 11px; gap: 6px; }
    .brand { font-size: 0.95rem; gap: 6px; }
    .brand img { width: 26px; height: 26px; }
    .topbar nav { gap: 6px; }
    .topbar .btn { padding: 8px 11px; font-size: 0.78rem; gap: 4px; }
    .topbar .btn svg { width: 13px; height: 13px; }
  }
  @media (max-width: 360px) {
    .hero-badge { font-size: 0.66rem; padding: 6px 10px; }
  }
  @media (max-width: 340px) {
    .brand img { display: none; }
    .brand { font-size: 0.88rem; }
    .topbar .btn { padding: 7px 9px; font-size: 0.73rem; }
  }

  /* ---------- content pages ---------- */
  .page-head {
    background: var(--dusk); color: var(--dusk-ink);
    padding: clamp(48px,8vw,80px) 0 clamp(40px,6vw,64px);
  }
  .page-head .eyebrow { display: block; margin-bottom: 14px; }
  .page-head h1 {
    font-size: clamp(2rem,4.6vw,3.4rem); font-weight: 600; line-height: 1.06;
    max-width: 20ch; color: var(--dusk-ink);
  }
  .page-head p {
    margin: 18px 0 0; max-width: 56ch; font-size: 1.02rem;
    color: rgba(244,239,228,0.82);
  }
  .crumb {
    font-family: 'IBM Plex Mono', monospace; font-size: 0.72rem;
    letter-spacing: 0.08em; text-transform: uppercase;
    color: rgba(244,239,228,0.6); margin-bottom: 20px;
  }
  .crumb a { color: var(--brass); text-decoration: none; }
  .crumb a:hover { text-decoration: underline; }

  .article { padding: clamp(52px,8vw,88px) 0; }
  .prose { max-width: 68ch; }
  .prose h2 {
    font-size: clamp(1.4rem,2.6vw,1.9rem); font-weight: 600;
    margin: 2.2em 0 0.6em;
  }
  .prose h2:first-child { margin-top: 0; }
  .prose h3 { font-size: 1.12rem; font-weight: 600; margin: 1.8em 0 0.4em; }
  .prose p { margin: 0 0 1.1em; font-size: 1rem; line-height: 1.68; color: var(--ink-soft); }
  .prose p.intro { font-family: 'Fraunces', serif; font-size: 1.16rem; color: var(--ink); line-height: 1.55; }
  .prose strong { color: var(--ink); font-weight: 600; }
  .prose a { color: var(--maroon); text-decoration: underline; text-underline-offset: 2px; }
  .prose ul, .prose ol { margin: 0 0 1.3em; padding-left: 1.2em; color: var(--ink-soft); }
  .prose li { margin-bottom: 0.5em; line-height: 1.62; }
  .prose li::marker { color: var(--brass); }

  .keyfacts {
    display: grid; gap: 0; margin: 0 0 2em;
    border-top: 1px solid var(--line);
  }
  .keyfacts div {
    display: flex; justify-content: space-between; gap: 18px;
    padding: 13px 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line);
    font-family: 'IBM Plex Mono', monospace; font-size: 0.84rem;
  }
  .keyfacts dt, .keyfacts .k {
    color: var(--ink-soft); text-transform: uppercase;
    letter-spacing: 0.05em; font-size: 0.7rem; padding-top: 3px;
  }
  .keyfacts dd, .keyfacts .v { margin: 0; text-align: right; font-weight: 500; color: var(--ink); }

  .callout {
    border-left: 3px solid var(--marigold);
    background: var(--surface-2);
    padding: 20px 22px; margin: 0 0 1.8em; border-radius: 0 3px 3px 0;
  }
  .callout p { margin: 0; font-size: 0.94rem; color: var(--ink); }
  .callout p + p { margin-top: 0.8em; }

  .faq-item { border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); padding: 22px 0; }
  .faq-item:first-of-type { border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
  .faq-item h3 { font-size: 1.08rem; font-weight: 600; margin: 0 0 8px; font-family: 'Fraunces', serif; }
  .faq-item p { margin: 0 0 0.7em; font-size: 0.96rem; color: var(--ink-soft); line-height: 1.65; }
  .faq-item p:last-child { margin-bottom: 0; }

  .page-cta { background: var(--surface-2); padding: clamp(44px,6vw,68px) 0; text-align: center; }
  .page-cta h2 { font-size: clamp(1.5rem,3.2vw,2.2rem); margin-bottom: 10px; }
  .page-cta p { color: var(--ink-soft); margin: 0 auto 26px; max-width: 46ch; font-size: 0.98rem; }
  .page-cta .cta-row { display: flex; justify-content: center; gap: 12px; flex-wrap: wrap; }

  .more-reading { margin-top: 3em; padding-top: 1.6em; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
  .more-reading .eyebrow { display: block; margin-bottom: 12px; }
  .more-reading ul { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 0; display: grid; gap: 10px; }
  .more-reading a { color: var(--ink); text-decoration: none; font-weight: 500; }
  .more-reading a:hover { color: var(--maroon); text-decoration: underline; }

  /* ---------- trip guides (homepage) ---------- */
  .guide-grid {
    display: grid; gap: clamp(16px,2.5vw,24px);
    /* auto-fit so the row rebalances as guides are added, instead of
       leaving an orphan card on a row of its own */
    grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fit, minmax(240px, 1fr));
  }
  .guide-grid > * { min-width: 0; }
  .guide-card {
    display: flex; flex-direction: column;
    background: var(--surface); border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 3px;
    padding: 28px; text-decoration: none; color: var(--ink);
    transition: border-color .15s ease, transform .15s ease, box-shadow .15s ease;
  }
  .guide-card:hover {
    border-color: var(--brass); transform: translateY(-2px);
    box-shadow: 0 6px 18px rgba(38,25,27,0.07);
  }
  .guide-card:focus-visible { outline: 2px solid var(--marigold); outline-offset: 3px; }
  .guide-card .eyebrow { display: block; margin-bottom: 12px; }
  .guide-card h3 { font-size: 1.18rem; font-weight: 600; margin-bottom: 10px; }
  .guide-card p { font-size: 0.92rem; color: var(--ink-soft); margin: 0 0 18px; flex: 1; line-height: 1.6; }
  .guide-card .go {
    font-family: 'IBM Plex Mono', monospace; font-size: 0.76rem;
    letter-spacing: 0.06em; text-transform: uppercase;
    color: var(--maroon); font-weight: 500;
  }

  /* readable inline links on the dark band */
  .loc-copy .inline-links { margin-top: 26px; font-size: 0.95rem; color: rgba(244,239,228,0.82); }
  .loc-copy .inline-links a {
    color: var(--dusk-ink); text-decoration: underline;
    text-underline-offset: 3px; font-weight: 500;
  }
  .loc-copy .inline-links a:hover { color: #E9C482; }

  /* footer navigation */
  .footer-nav { display: grid; gap: 9px; align-content: start; }
  .footer-nav a {
    font-size: 0.88rem; color: var(--ink); text-decoration: none;
    border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); padding-bottom: 3px; width: fit-content;
  }
  .footer-nav a:hover { color: var(--maroon); border-color: var(--maroon); }
  .footer-nav .eyebrow { display: block; margin-bottom: 4px; }



  /* ---------- top bar navigation ---------- */
  .topbar-left {
    display: flex; align-items: center;
    gap: clamp(18px, 3vw, 34px); min-width: 0;
  }
  .topnav { display: flex; gap: clamp(14px, 1.8vw, 24px); }
  .topnav a {
    font-size: 0.88rem; font-weight: 500; color: var(--ink);
    text-decoration: none; white-space: nowrap;
    padding-bottom: 3px; border-bottom: 1.5px solid transparent;
    transition: color .15s ease, border-color .15s ease;
  }
  .topnav a:hover { color: var(--maroon); border-bottom-color: var(--maroon); }
  .topnav a:focus-visible { outline: 2px solid var(--marigold); outline-offset: 3px; }

  /* Below 1020px the nav drops to its own full-width row under the logo and
     CTAs, rather than being hidden — on phones it is the only way to reach the
     guide pages. Selectors here are .topbar .topnav (0,2,0) because the older
     .topbar nav {display:flex} is (0,1,1) and outranks a bare .topnav (0,1,0). */
  @media (max-width: 1020px) {
    .topbar .wrap { flex-wrap: wrap; padding-bottom: 0; gap: 12px; }
    .topbar .topnav {
      order: 3; flex-basis: 100%;
      margin-top: 2px; padding: 9px 0 10px;
      border-top: 1px solid var(--line);
      gap: clamp(16px, 4.6vw, 26px);
      overflow-x: auto; scrollbar-width: none;
      -webkit-overflow-scrolling: touch;
    }
    .topbar .topnav::-webkit-scrollbar { display: none; }
    .topbar .topnav a { font-size: 0.83rem; padding-bottom: 2px; }
  }
  .topnav a.is-active { color: var(--maroon); border-bottom-color: var(--maroon); }

  /* ---------- page header with photo ---------- */
  .page-head.has-photo {
    position: relative; isolation: isolate; overflow: hidden;
    padding-top: clamp(88px,12vw,150px); padding-bottom: clamp(72px,9vw,110px);
  }
  .page-head.has-photo .backdrop { position: absolute; inset: 0; z-index: -2; }
  /* object-position keeps the subject in frame: a wide, short band always crops
     a 16:9 or portrait photo vertically, so bias the crop rather than centring. */
  .page-head.has-photo .backdrop img {
    width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; object-position: center 20%;
  }
  .page-head.has-photo::before {
    content: ""; position: absolute; inset: 0; z-index: -1;
    background:
      linear-gradient(100deg, rgba(14,22,38,0.94) 0%, rgba(14,22,38,0.82) 38%, rgba(14,22,38,0.28) 100%),
      linear-gradient(180deg, rgba(14,22,38,0.35) 0%, rgba(14,22,38,0.25) 50%, rgba(14,22,38,0.6) 100%);
  }
  .photo-credit {
    font-family: 'IBM Plex Mono', monospace; font-size: 0.66rem;
    letter-spacing: 0.04em; color: var(--ink-soft); margin: 0;
  }
  .photo-credit a { color: var(--ink-soft); }

  /* At the very narrowest widths, tighten the nav row so all four items fit
     without the last one being clipped (it was ~15px over at 320px). */
  @media (max-width: 345px) {
    .topbar .topnav { gap: 10px; }
    .topbar .topnav a { font-size: 0.79rem; }
  }

  /* ---------- in-article figure ---------- */
  .prose figure { margin: 2em 0; }
  .prose figure img {
    width: 100%; height: auto; display: block;
    border-radius: 3px; border: 1px solid var(--line);
  }
  .prose figure.portrait img { max-width: 420px; }
  .prose figcaption {
    margin-top: 10px; font-size: 0.82rem; color: var(--ink-soft);
    font-family: 'IBM Plex Mono', monospace; line-height: 1.5;
  }

  /* With five nav items the row scrolls on phones. Fade the right edge so the
     last item reads as "swipe for more" rather than as clipped/broken. Applied
     only below the width where the row stops scrolling. */
  @media (max-width: 470px) {
    .topbar .topnav {
      -webkit-mask-image: linear-gradient(to right, #000 86%, transparent 100%);
              mask-image: linear-gradient(to right, #000 86%, transparent 100%);
    }
  }
